Tōji-in, the family temple of the Ashikaga shogunate, has a history of over 570 years. Founded by the first shogun of the Muromachi shogunate, Ashikaga Takauji, the temple holds deep historical significance, reflecting both the prominent and shadowed aspects of Kyoto’s past.
The temple grounds house wooden statues of the successive Ashikaga shoguns, and its garden, said to be designed by the Zen monk Musō Soseki, is designated as a Kyoto City Scenic Spot. Known as the “Fuyō Pond,” this tranquil garden embodies the refined aesthetics of the era.
Tōji-in is also home to the burial site and studio of Shōzō Makino, the “Father of Japanese Cinema,” adding a layer of cultural importance. While the temple is ranked first among Kyoto’s Ten Temples (Kyoto Jissatsu), it remains relatively quiet and is less frequented by tourists, making it a hidden gem worth exploring. In this article, we will delve deeper into this historically rich and culturally significant temple.
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Toji-in: What Makes It Special？
Image source: Toji-in Temple official website Tōji-in, located in the northern part of Kyoto, is a Zen temple belonging to the Rinzai sect of the Tenryū-ji school and is ranked as the first among the Ten Temples of Kyoto.
The temple grounds feature two gardens traditionally attributed to the Zen master Musō Soseki. The Eastern Garden, centered around the Shinji Pond, and the Western Garden, known for the Fuyō Pond, form a pond-and-scenery strolling garden, both offering serene landscapes.
In the Reikō-den Hall, the principal image is the Riun Jizō, said to have been created by Kōbō Daishi, and wooden statues of the successive Ashikaga shoguns are enshrined.
Additionally, the fusuma (sliding door) paintings of the Hōjō, crafted by the renowned artist Kanō Kōi, contribute to the hall’s majestic atmosphere.
The temple grounds also boast seasonal flowers, including a 400-year-old Wabisuke camellia, as well as azaleas, mountain laurel, gardenias, and hibiscus, allowing visitors to enjoy beautiful nature in a tranquil environment year-round.
History of Tōji-in
Tōji-in is a temple founded by Ashikaga Takauji, the first shogun of the Ashikaga shogunate, and has played an important role as the family temple (bodaiji) for the Ashikaga shoguns.
Ranked as the top of Kyoto’s Ten Temples (Kyoto Jussa), it is highly regarded as a Zen Buddhist temple.
Foundation and Merging with Tōji-ji
In 1341 (Kōjō 4), Ashikaga Takauji established Tōji-in at the southern foot of Mount Kisugasa, with the Zen master Musō Kōshū (from Tenryū-ji) as the founding abbot. Initially, it was built as a sub-temple of the Tōji-ji located in Kyoto, and was known as “Kita Tōji-ji” (North Tōji-ji).
After Takauji’s death in 1358 (Enbun 3), the temple became his burial site and was renamed Tōji-in, taking his posthumous name.
Following the Onin War, when the original Tōji-ji temple was destroyed by fire, Tōji-in became the main temple. Under the guidance of Musō Kōshū, it flourished as a Zen Buddhist temple and became an important place for prayers for the shogunate throughout the Muromachi period.
History of Conflict and Restoration
The temple faced destruction during wars like the Onin War, but it remained highly valued, even to the point that Toyotomi Hideyoshi instructed his son, Hideyori, to restore it.
In 1606 (Keichō 11), Hideyori ordered the restoration of the temple with Katagiri Katsumoto as the chief overseer. During this period, the current Reikō-den (Main Hall) was built, and wooden statues of the Ashikaga shoguns were enshrined.
However, in 1808 (Bunka 5), another fire destroyed many of the temple’s buildings. The temple was once again restored during the Bunsei period (1818–1831), and it was rebuilt in its present form.
Notably, the Fusuma (sliding door) paintings in the hōjō (main hall) were created by Kanō Kōi, showcasing the high artistic level of the time.
Modern Changes
During the Meiji period, many of the sub-temples were abolished, but the importance of Tōji-in as the family temple of the Ashikaga shoguns ensured the preservation of its main buildings.
In 1921 (Taishō 10), the “father of Japanese cinema,” Makino Shōzō, established a film studio on the grounds of the former Tōji-in sub-temple, which remained in operation until 1933. Many period films were shot here, leaving a significant mark on the history of Japanese cinema.
From 2017 onward, large-scale renovation and restoration work was carried out on the temple grounds, completing in July 2020. This included re-roofing the Reikō-den and hōjō, as well as landscaping the gardens, returning the temple to its former glory.
Today, Tōji-in continues to serve as the family temple of the Ashikaga shoguns, preserving numerous valuable cultural assets that tell the story of its 230-year history spanning 15 generations. Among these, the gardens attributed to Musō Kōshū and the wooden statues of the Ashikaga shoguns stand as precious cultural relics, transmitting the cultural heritage of the Muromachi period to the present day.
Highlights of Tōji-in
Tōji-in, ranked as the top among Kyoto’s Ten Temples (Kyoto Jussa), is home to valuable cultural heritage and gardens that have been passed down since the Muromachi period. The temple grounds, enveloped in tranquility, offer visitors a chance to experience the history of the Ashikaga shoguns and the world of Zen.
Here are three must-see highlights when visiting Tōji-in:
Highlights of Tōji-in
Statues of Ashikaga Shoguns in the Reikō-den
Garden Designed by Musō Kōshū
Hōjō (Main Hall) and Fusuma Paintings
1. Statues of Ashikaga Shoguns in the Reikō-den
Image source: Tōji-in The main hall of Tōji-in, the Reikō-den , enshrines wooden statues of the 15 Ashikaga shoguns, with Rīun Jizō , said to have been created by Kōbō Daishi, as the principal deity. The statues of the 5th shogun, Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, and the 14th shogun, Ashikaga Yoshinobu, are absent, but the statue of Tokugawa Ieyasu is also enshrined, offering a link to the history of the Muromachi period.
These statues are important cultural artifacts that reflect the significance of Tōji-in as the family temple of the Ashikaga shoguns. Following restoration work in 2020, the Reikō-den has regained its former grandeur, allowing visitors to view the statues in a solemn atmosphere. The statues are also highly regarded for their artistic value, showcasing typical features of portrait sculpture from the Muromachi period.
2. Garden Designed by Musō Kōshū
Image source: Garden Information Media “Oniwa-san” 東西に分かれた池泉回遊式庭園は、夢窓国師の作庭と伝えられています。
Tōji-in’s garden is a kare-sansui-style strolling garden divided into eastern and western sections, attributed to the Zen master Musō Kōshū.
The eastern garden features Shinji-ike (Heart-Shaped Pond), designed to resemble the cursive character for “heart” (心), creating a peaceful and meditative space. In the western garden, there is Fuyō-ike (Hibiscus Pond) and the Seirentei tea house , where seasonal flowers add color throughout the year. The garden changes its appearance with each season, especially with azaleas in early summer, gardenias in summer, and hibiscus in early autumn.
The garden is designated as a scenic spot by Kyoto City, and recent restoration work in 2020, including pond dredging and stone repairs, has brought it closer to its original form. The wabisuke camellia , aged over 400 years, blooms delicate flowers in spring, adding to the beauty of the garden.
3. Hōjō (Main Hall) and Fusuma Paintings
Image source: Kyoto City Cultural Tourism Resource Preservation Foundation The Hōjō , originally built in 1616 (Genwa 2) by Fukushima Masanori and relocated in 1812 (Bunka 9), features beautiful fusuma (sliding door) paintings by Kanō Kōi.
As you walk along the veranda facing the southern garden, the pleasant sound of the uguisu bari (bamboo floor) creates a serene ambiance. These fusuma paintings were once damaged but have since been restored and are displayed annually during the temple’s treasure exhibition. Notable works such as the “Bamboo Forest with Fierce Tiger” and “Pine Trees and Hawks” showcase the Kanō school’s techniques and are highly valued as cultural treasures.
The view from the Hōjō also offers a stunning perspective of the garden, allowing visitors to enjoy the changing scenery through the seasons. Restoration work completed in 2020 has also improved the overall condition of the building, enhancing the experience for visitors.
Best Seasons to Visit Toji-in
Tōji-in is a temple where you can enjoy the beauty of each season.
Especially from mid-November to early December, around 50 maple trees color the temple grounds, and the autumn foliage reflected in Shinji-ike (Heart-Shaped Pond) and Fuyō-ike (Hibiscus Pond) creates a magical landscape.
In early summer, from early June to early July, the Hange-shō (a type of plant) reaches its peak bloom, with its leaves turning half white, creating a unique and elegant atmosphere.
In summer, gardenias bloom, and in early autumn, hibiscus flowers blossom in full glory.
To avoid crowds, early morning visits are recommended. Particularly during the autumn foliage season, while it is a popular spot, the temple tends to be relatively quiet, allowing you to enjoy the garden and buildings in a peaceful environment.
Access to Tōji-in
Tōji-in is located in the northern part of Kyoto and can be accessed by various transportation methods. Most tourists visit from Kyoto Station or Kinkaku-ji, so here are the detailed directions for each route.
From Kyoto Station:
The most convenient way from Kyoto Station is to take the City Bus, Line 26. Get off at the “Tōji-in Minamimachi” bus stop and walk for 8 minutes to reach the temple. The journey takes about 40 minutes, and the bus fare is 230 yen.
Alternatively, if you prefer to use the train, take the Karasuma Subway Line to Imadegawa Station, then transfer to Bus Line 203.
For JR bus users, take JR Bus Line 3 from the JR Bus Terminal. The bus reaches “Ritsumeikan University-mae” in about 30 minutes, and from there, it’s a 10-minute walk.
Access Methods Bus, Train Time Bus: 40 minutes Fare Bus: 230 yen
From Kinkaku-ji:
From Kinkaku-ji, the most convenient way to reach Tōji-in is to take City Bus Line 59 and get off at “Ritsumeikan University-mae.” The journey takes about 15 minutes, and the fare is 230 yen.
If you prefer to walk, it takes about 20 minutes.
Along the way from Kinkaku-ji to Tōji-in, there are other famous spots like Ryōan-ji, making it a great opportunity to explore the area while enjoying the scenery. Particularly during the autumn foliage season, walking through the temples allows you to experience the charm of Kyoto.
Access Methods Bus, Walking Time Bus: 15 minutes Fare Bus: 230 yen
Tōji-in Admission and Visiting Hours
Here is a summary of the admission fees and visiting hours for Tōji-in:
Item Details Visiting Hours 9:00 AM – 4:30 PM (last admission at 4:00 PM) Admission Fees Adults: 600 yen Closed Open daily, no days off Tea Room Matcha: 600 yen (includes special Tōji-in sweets) Goshuin (Seal) 300 yen (written seal only) Parking 10 spaces (Free)
Recommended Spots Around Tōji-in
There are several historical attractions around Tōji-in that are worth visiting.
Here are three recommended spots:
Ryōan-ji Image source: Kinukake no Michi Ryōan-ji is a Zen temple registered as a World Heritage site and belongs to the Myōshin-ji school of Rinzai Buddhism. It was founded in 1450 by Hosokawa Katsumoto, a powerful figure during the Muromachi period.
The famous rock garden, made of white sand and 15 stones, is a globally recognized landmark praised by Queen Elizabeth II. It features a unique characteristic: from any angle, you cannot view all 15 stones simultaneously, symbolizing the Zen concept of “imperfection.”
In the southern part of the temple grounds, Kyo-yō-ike (Mirror Pond) offers a picturesque setting to enjoy seasonal flowers and landscapes. The contrast between the rock garden and the vibrant colors of the autumn leaves is particularly stunning. Additionally, the “Chisoku-no-Tsukubai,” donated by Tokugawa Mitsukuni, features Zen teachings engraved on it.
Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion) Kinkaku-ji, or officially known as Rokuon-ji, was built by Ashikaga Yoshimitsu during the Muromachi period. The iconic golden pavilion is covered in gold leaf, and in 2020, the roof was re-thatched for the first time in 20 years, giving it a renewed brilliance.
The three layers of the pavilion represent different architectural styles: the first layer follows the shinden-zukuri style, the second the buke-zukuri style, and the third follows the Zen Buddhist hall style. On the temple grounds, the “Rikushū-no-Matsu,” a 600-year-old pine tree, is renowned as one of Kyoto’s three famous pines.
The Mirror Pond (Kyōkō-ike) provides a breathtaking view of the golden pavilion reflecting on the water, especially during the autumn foliage season. The view from the tea room “Sen-shin-tei” is equally splendid, offering a perfect spot to enjoy the changing seasonal landscapes.
Ninna-ji Image source: Ninna-ji Temple official website Ninna-ji is the head temple of the Omuro school of Shingon Buddhism and is also a World Heritage site. It is famous for its late-blooming “Omuro Cherry Trees,” with around 200 cherry trees adorning the temple grounds. These unique cherry trees bloom at a lower height of about 3 meters and spread their branches from the base, making them a beloved symbol of the end of the cherry blossom season in Kyoto.
The temple’s main hall, the Golden Hall (Kondō), is a national treasure and was relocated from the imperial palace’s Shishinden during the Keichō period, making it one of the oldest surviving Shishinden structures.
Key highlights also include the Five-story Pagoda and the Kannon Hall, along with the Nio-mon gate, built during the Edo period and recognized as one of Kyoto’s three famous gates. The Reimeiden Hall houses a small statue of the Yakushi Nyorai Buddha, and during the 8th of each month, special goshuin (temple seals) are offered.
These three spots offer a wonderful opportunity to explore Kyoto’s historical and natural beauty, making them ideal additions to any visit to Tōji-in.
Frequently Asked Questions About Tōji-in
What are the features of Tōji-in’s gardens?
Tōji-in has two distinct gardens, traditionally attributed to the famous gardener Musō Soseki.
The East Garden features the Shinji-ike pond, which is shaped like the Chinese character for “heart” (心). The West Garden has the Fuyō-ike pond and the tea house “Seirentei.” The West Garden is particularly known for its strolling pond garden design, which incorporates the scenic view of Kinugasa Mountain. It boasts seasonal flowers throughout the year, making it a beautiful site across the seasons.
What is enshrined in the Reikō-den (Hall of Light)?
The Reikō-den enshrines the Riun Jizō-son , a statue of Jizō believed to be carved by Kōbō Daishi (Kōbō Daishi), the founder of Shingon Buddhism. Additionally, it houses wooden statues of all 15 generations of the Ashikaga shoguns. However, statues of the 5th shogun Yoshimasa and the 14th shogun Yoshinori are missing. A statue of Tokugawa Ieyasu is also enshrined here, connecting the temple to the history of the Muromachi period.
When is the best time to see Tōji-in’s autumn leaves?
The best time to view the autumn leaves is from mid-November to early December . During this period, approximately 50 maple trees color the temple grounds, with the vibrant leaves reflecting on the Shinji-ike and Fuyō-ike ponds, creating a magical atmosphere. Compared to other famous spots for autumn foliage, Tōji-in is relatively quiet, offering a peaceful environment to enjoy the autumn colors.
Why is Tōji-in an important temple?
Tōji-in was founded in 1341 by Ashikaga Takauji , the first shogun of the Ashikaga shogunate, and served as the family temple for the Ashikaga shoguns. It holds significant historical value as the number one among the “Kyoto Ten Temples” and was highly regarded by Toyotomi Hideyoshi , who ordered its reconstruction for his son, Hideyori. The temple continues to preserve a wealth of cultural assets, showcasing its over 230 years of history under the Ashikaga shogunate.
Summary
Located in the Kita ward of Kyoto, Tōji-in is a Zen temple of the Rinzai sect, founded by Ashikaga Takauji , the first shogun of the Ashikaga shogunate, as a family temple for the Ashikaga shoguns. It is ranked first among the “Kyoto Ten Temples” due to its historical significance.
The temple grounds feature the national treasure Reikō-den Hall, which houses statues of the Ashikaga shoguns. The gardens, traditionally attributed to the renowned gardener Musō Soseki , are divided into two sections: the East and West Gardens . The West Garden, centered around Fuyō-ike and Shinji-ike ponds, is particularly beautiful throughout the year, with flowers in bloom and vibrant autumn leaves creating a serene atmosphere.
As a hidden gem with fewer crowds compared to other popular sites, Tōji-in offers a peaceful experience where visitors can enjoy both the rich history and natural beauty of Kyoto. If you’re visiting Kyoto, Tōji-in is definitely worth a visit.
