Affectionately known as the “Western Imperial Palace,” Myoshinji is the head temple of the Myoshinji school of Rinzai Buddhism, which has more than 3,400 temples across the country.
This temple, built on land beloved by Emperor Hanazono, is home to 46 sub-temples, forming a vast complex that is almost like a city.
The ceiling of the lecture hall is decorated with a painting of a dragon and clouds by Kano Tan’yū, and the dragon’s appearance, which changes depending on the angle from which it is viewed, continues to fascinate many people.
There are also many sights throughout the area that are full of history and culture, such as the oldest temple bell in Japan and a beautiful temple quarters that has been used as a filming location for movies.
The world of Zen, which has been passed down for over 1000 years, still lives on here at Myoshinji Temple.
In this article, we’ll take a closer look at the history and highlights of Myoshinji Temple.
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What kind of place is Myoshinji Temple?
Image source: Myoshinji Temple official website Myoshinji Temple is the head temple of the Myoshinji school of the Rinzai sect of Buddhism, located in Ukyo Ward, Kyoto City, and is one of the largest Zen temples in Japan, with over 3,400 branch temples across the country.
It was founded in 1337 by imperial decree of Emperor Hanazono and is also known as the “Western Imperial Palace.”
a vast temple complex that is almost like a city .
In particular, the layout of the temple complex, with the Chokushimon Gate, Sanmon Gate, Butsuden, Lecture Hall, and Daihojo all aligned in a straight line from north to south, is a rare feature compared to other temples.
Highlights include the Cloud Dragon painting in the lecture hall, which took Kano Tan’yu eight years to paint, the kuri (temple kitchen), which has also been used as a filming location for a movie, and Japan’s oldest temple bell, which is designated as a national treasure.
History of Myoshinji Temple
Myoshinji Temple, located in Ukyo Ward, Kyoto City, is the head temple of the Myoshinji school of the Rinzai sect of Buddhism and has a history spanning nearly 700 years.
In this chapter, we will explore the history of Myoshinji Temple.
Founded by Emperor Hanazono
In 1335, the 95th Emperor Hanazono became a monk and made a vow to turn his Hanazono Palace into a Zen temple.
At the time, this area was home to the residences of nobles, and was known as the “Flower Garden” because of the abundance of flowers that bloomed throughout the seasons.
In 1337, Emperor Hanazono’s Zen teacher, Daito Kokushi Shuho Myocho, recommended his disciple Sekizan Egen to become the temple’s founder.
Development during the Northern and Southern Courts period
In 1338 Emperor Hanazono built Gyokuho-in Temple and studied Zen under Sekizan Egen.
In 1347, he wrote about his passionate feelings for Myoshinji Temple in his “Imperial Writings of the Past,” and passed away the following year in 1348.
Later, in 1399, during the Oei Rebellion, the temple was confiscated by Ashikaga Yoshimitsu and was forced to change its name to Ryuunji Temple, which was a difficult time for the temple.
Prosperity after the Muromachi period
In 1432, the name Myoshinji was returned to the temple, and it was restored by Zen master Niho Soshun.
It was once burned down during the Onin War, but was rebuilt when Zen Master Sesshō Soshin received an imperial decree from Emperor Go-Tsuchimikado to restore it.
In 1509, the temple grounds were expanded to their current size, seven temple buildings were constructed, and sub-temples were built one after another.
Highlights of Myoshinji Temple
Myoshinji is dotted with historical sights.
The following three spots in particular are definitely worth stopping by when you visit.
Highlights of Myoshinji Temple
Cloud Dragon in the Lecture Hall
The national treasure, the Daikuri
Japan’s oldest temple bell
① Cloud Dragon in the Lecture Hall
Image source: Myoshinji Temple The ceiling painting, which took Kano Tan’yū eight years to complete, is known as the “Dragon Glancing in All Directions.”
Its expression changes depending on the angle from which you view it; when viewed from the head, it looks like a dragon descending from the sky, and when viewed from the tail, it looks like a dragon rising into the sky.
Inside, there are a row of gigantic zelkova pillars, each eight meters tall and two meters in circumference, that were brought from the foot of Mount Fuji, exuding an overwhelming presence.
②The National Treasure Daikuri
Image source: Myoshinji Temple The Daikuri, which serves as the kitchen of Myoshinji Temple, is a beautiful building that has also been used as a filming location for movies.
A large corridor continues from the entrance, and is beautifully polished, with five pots lined up at the back, each capable of cooking 200 cups of rice at a time.
Equipped with facilities capable of cooking and serving meals for hundreds of people at once, it is a testament to the waste-free lifestyle of Zen temples.
3. Japan’s oldest temple bell
The temple bell, a national treasure enshrined in the lecture hall, is the oldest inscribed bell in Japan, having been built approximately 1,300 years ago.
It is called the “Osho-cho bell” and was given this name because its tone matches the Osho-cho bell of the twelve notes of gagaku.
This famous bell is also mentioned in the Tsurezuregusa, and is currently on display in the lecture hall for preservation purposes.
What is the best season to visit Myoshinji Temple?
Myoshinji Temple is beautiful in all four seasons, but spring and autumn are especially recommended times to visit.
In spring, it is known as a famous cherry blossom viewing spot, and the weeping cherry blossoms at Taizoin Temple are particularly spectacular.
The best time to see them is usually around April 10th, and the contrast with the rock garden creates a beautiful sight.
In autumn, it is a popular spot for viewing autumn leaves, with the best time to see them being from mid-November to early December.
In particular, at Taizoin Temple’s Yokoen Garden, the maples surrounding the pond take on vibrant autumn colors, and the autumn leaves reflected on the water’s surface create a beautiful sight.
In the summer, you can enjoy the flowers of the sala tree at Torin-in Temple. They are known as “one-day flowers” that bloom in the morning and fade at night.
If you want to avoid the crowds, we recommend going early in the morning on a weekday.
Access to Myoshinji Temple
Myoshinji Temple is located in Ukyo Ward, Kyoto City and can be accessed by several means of transportation.
Many tourists arrive from Kyoto Station or Kinkakuji Temple, so we will explain in detail how to get there from each location.
Access from Kyoto Station
The most convenient way is to take the JR Sagano Line.
From Kyoto Station it is about a 15-minute ride to Hanazono Station, then a 5-minute walk to the South Gate.
If you take the bus, take city bus route 26 from Kyoto Station, get off at “Myoshinji Kitamonmae” and walk for 2 minutes to arrive.
If you take a taxi, it will take about 25 minutes.
You can also combine subways and city buses, allowing you to choose the best route depending on the situation.
Access from Kinkakuji Temple
The most common way to get there is to take a city bus from the Kinkakuji-michi bus stop.
Take line 204 or 205 and get off at Kitano-Hakubaicho, then transfer to the Arashiyama Line and take the 3-minute ride to Myoshinji Station.
The combined bus and train fare is 480 yen.
If you take a taxi, it will take about 7 minutes and cost about 1,000 yen.
You can also walk there in about 30 minutes, allowing you to enjoy the sights of Kyoto as you travel.
Myoshinji Temple admission fees and opening hours
Basic information about Myoshinji Temple is summarized in the table below.
item Contents Visiting hours Morning: 9:00-12:00 Admission fee Adults: 500 yen holiday Open everyday (however, closed on certain days) Travel time 30 minutes to 1 hour parking Private car: 700 yen (free for visitors) telephone number 075-461-5226 Important Notes ・Tickets are sold until 15:30
Recommended spots around Myoshinji Temple
There are many historical sights dotted around Myoshinji Temple.
We especially recommend the following three spots:
①Toji-in Temple
Image source: Toji-in Temple official website This temple is within walking distance of Myoshinji Temple and is known as the family temple of the Ashikaga clan.
It is a temple of great historical value as it is the gravesite of Ashikaga Takauji.
There is a beautiful garden within the temple grounds, where you can reflect on history in a tranquil atmosphere.
The garden is especially beautiful during the autumn foliage season, when the leaves change color brilliantly and you can enjoy the soothing scenery.
②Ryōan-ji Temple
Image source: Toji-in Temple official website This World Heritage temple is located about a 29-minute walk from Myoshinji Temple.
The particularly famous rock garden is a world-renowned dry landscape garden that has been designated a Special Place of Scenic Beauty by the national government.
The garden, which is made up of 15 stones, is known for its mysterious design, in which none of the stones are visible from any angle.
There is also a strolling pond called Kyoyo-chi, where you can enjoy flowers that change with the seasons.
③Ninna-ji Temple
Image source: Ninna-ji Temple official website This is a World Heritage temple located about 20 minutes from Myoshinji Temple.
It was founded by Emperor Uda in 888 and is known as a famous spot for viewing Omuro cherry blossoms.
Home to majestic structures such as the five-story pagoda and main hall, it is a tourist attraction that still conveys the atmosphere of the Heian period.
In particular, the Kondo Hall was relocated from the Shishinden Hall of the Kyoto Imperial Palace and is designated as a national treasure.
The temple grounds also house precious Buddhist statues, including the Amida Triad.
Frequently asked questions about Myoshinji Temple
What is the Cloud Dragon painting in the lecture hall of Myoshinji Temple?
This ceiling painting took Kano Tan’y笛 eight years to complete.
The tall zelkova pillars brought from the foot of Mount Fuji are lined up, creating a solemn atmosphere.
The lecture hall is designated as an Important Cultural Property and is the place where important ceremonies such as the founder’s memorial service and the Bodhidharma memorial service are held.
How big is Myoshinji Temple?
There are 46 sub-temples within the temple grounds, and there are more than 3,400 branch temples in Japan and around the world.
It is one of the largest Zen temples in Japan, with approximately 7,000 enrolled monks and affiliated institutions such as Hanazono University and Hanazono High School.
Why is Myoshinji Temple called “Hanazono”?
Long ago, this area was home to the residences of nobles, and it came to be known as “Flower Garden” because of the beautiful flowers that bloomed throughout the seasons.
Emperor Hanazono loved this place and converted the villa into a Zen temple, which is how Myoshinji Temple began.
What are the characteristics of Sanmon?
The Sanmon Gate, built in 1601, is the only vermilion-painted building in the temple grounds.
It is a double gate with five bays and three doors, and is imbued with the meaning of liberation through the Zen state of emptiness, formlessness, and uncreatedness.
The ceiling is decorated with colorful paintings by Kano Gonzaemon.
summary
Myoshinji, the head temple of the Myoshinji school of the Rinzai sect of Buddhism, is one of the largest Zen temples in Japan, with over 3,400 branch temples across the country.
Founded in 1337 when Emperor Hanazono’s villa was converted into a Zen temple, it now forms a vast temple complex with 46 sub-temples.
The lecture hall houses the painting of a dragon glaring in all directions, known as the Cloud Dragon, which Kano Tan’yu spent eight years painting, and is also home to Japan’s oldest temple bell.
There are plenty of things to see, including the National Treasure Daikuri, which has also been used as a filming location for movies.
Be sure to visit this historic temple, where the world of Zen and traditional Japanese culture live on.
