Kodaiji Temple, nestled in the atmosphere of the ancient capital of Higashiyama, is a special temple crystallized with love and memories.
Built in 1606 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s wife, Kita no Mandokoro (Nene), to express her deep feelings for her late husband, this place is more than just a religious facility; it is also a treasure trove of art that brings together the best of Momoyama culture.
We would like to invite you on a journey around some of Kyoto’s most famous temples, where evidence of love still lives on, including the mausoleum and founder’s hall designated as Important Cultural Properties, gardens that show off their beauty in every season, and fantastic nighttime illuminations.
What kind of place is Kodaiji Temple?
Kodaiji Temple is a Rinzai sect temple of the Kenninji school located in Higashiyama, Kyoto.
It was built in 1606 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s wife, Kita no Mandokoro (Nene), to pray for the repose of her husband’s soul .
The temple’s name, “Kodaiji,” comes from Nene’s Buddhist name, “Kodaiin.”
The temple grounds are dotted with many historical buildings, including the Otamaya (Maiden’s House) and Kaisan-do (Founder’s Hall), both designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan, as well as teahouses such as the Kasatei (Kasatei) and Shigure-tei (Shiguretei) teahouses and the Kangetsudai (Moon-viewing platform).
In particular, the “Masaya” (sacred shrine) houses wooden statues of Hideyoshi and Nene and is decorated with gorgeous “Kodaiji Maki-e” (lacquerware).
The garden is said to have been designed by Kobori Enshu, and is known as a famous spot for viewing cherry blossoms and autumn leaves.
During the special nighttime viewings in spring and autumn, the temple is illuminated with fantastical lights and projection mapping, attracting many tourists.
Nene’s deep love for Hideyoshi still lives on at this famous temple, which is a symbol of Momoyama culture.
History of Kodaiji Temple
The history of Kodaiji is a story of love and politics.
Let’s trace the changes in the temple that were shaped by one woman’s deep passion, from the end of the Sengoku period to the beginning of the Edo period.
From its founding to the present day, Kodaiji Temple has undergone many changes, but it has continued to maintain its essential character as “Nene’s Temple.”
Background of the foundation and the thoughts of the Empress Dowager
Kodaiji Temple was founded in 1606 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s wife, Kita no Mandokoro (Nene).
After Hideyoshi’s death, Nene became a nun, took the name Kodaiin, and vowed to build a temple to commemorate the soul of her late husband.
The realization of this grand plan was made possible with the tremendous support of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the ruler of Japan at the time.
Ieyasu provided a vast amount of land for the temple and provided political and financial support for the founding of Kodaiji Temple.
It is said that at the time of its founding, major buildings such as the Kaisan-do Hall (formerly Hanene’s residence), the mausoleum, the teahouses Kasatei and Shigure-tei, and the moon-viewing platform were moved from Fushimi Castle, which was built by Hideyoshi .
Moving the remains of Fushimi Castle to the temple served to physically transfer Hideyoshi’s prestige and Nene’s personal memories.
History of disaster and reconstruction
Since its founding, Kodaiji Temple has suffered several disasters.
In particular, a fire in 1789 destroyed the small abbot’s quarters and the temple’s priests’ quarters, and the abbot’s quarters and other buildings were burned down again during the turbulent period from the end of the Edo period through to the Meiji era.
However, many of the important buildings, such as the Kaisan-do Hall and the mausoleum, escaped the fire and remain vestiges of the Momoyama period.
Of the buildings that were burned down, the Daihojo was rebuilt in 1912 (Taisho 1).
Furthermore, the Kohojo, which was burned down in 1789, was rebuilt by moving Nene’s former residence from Entoku-in Temple, but it is said that it later burned down again.
A reconstruction project for the Ko-Hokjo is currently underway, and efforts are being made to preserve and pass on this cultural asset using modern methods such as crowdfunding.
A fusion of modern innovation and tradition
Kodaiji Temple is more than just a historical heritage; it continues to innovate in modern times.
Of particular note are the special nighttime viewings that are held periodically.
This event is held three times a year, in spring, summer, and fall, and in addition to lighting up the gardens and buildings, it also features projection mapping in the Hashintei garden, the front garden of the Hojo.
In recent years, an android modeled after the Bodhisattva Kannon called “Minder” has been installed within the temple grounds, and efforts have begun to convey Buddhist teachings such as the Heart Sutra in a modern way.
This bold experiment, which expands the possibilities of expression in Buddhism, is attracting attention both at home and abroad.
Although Kodaiji has a history spanning more than 400 years, it has always kept up with the times and continues to be a place that fuses tradition with innovation.
Highlights of Kodaiji Temple
Kodaiji Temple has many attractions that attract visitors.
There is plenty to see, including historical buildings relocated from Fushimi Castle, intricate art symbolizing Momoyama culture, and gardens where you can enjoy the beauty of each season.
Here we will introduce three particularly noteworthy sights.
Please enjoy the essence of this temple, which embodies Empress Nene’s feelings for Hideyoshi.
Highlights of Kodaiji Temple
- Otamaya (the shrine) and Kodaiji Makie
- Kaisando Hall and the gardens of Garyu-chi and Engetsu-chi
- Teahouses “Kasatei” and “Shiguretei” and special nighttime viewing
Otamaya (the shrine) and Kodaiji Makie
The mausoleum is the central structure of Kodaiji Temple and is where wooden statues of Toyotomi Hideyoshi and his wife, Empress Nene, are enshrined.
The Hogyo-zukuri roof and cypress bark roofing exterior have been designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan.
Particularly noteworthy is the interior decoration, with the altar and shrine decorated with “Kodaiji Maki-e”, the finest Momoyama period decoration .
This maki-e is mainly made up of Hira-maki-e and features gorgeous designs that make full use of techniques such as needle drawing and Erikoji.
Motifs such as autumn grasses, chrysanthemums, and paulownia (Hideyoshi’s family crest) are used, and the “flower raft” seen on the stairs of the mausoleum and the “all musical instruments” on the stepped platform are some of his representative works.
It is said that Nene’s body is actually buried beneath her memorial tablet, making it a space where you can feel her deep love and reverence for Hideyoshi.
Kaisando Hall and the gardens of Garyu-chi and Engetsu-chi
Kaisan-do Hall is a hall dedicated to Zen Master San’e Shoeki, the first chief priest of Kodaiji Temple, and is believed to have originally been Nene’s living room or Buddhist hall relocated from Fushimi Castle.
The interior, which features coffered ceilings and paintings by the Kano school, has been designated an Important Cultural Property.
A beautiful garden surrounds the Kaisan-do Hall, and the stroll-style garden centered around two ponds, Garyu-chi and Engetsu-chi, is particularly impressive .
Said to have been created by Kobori Enshu, this garden makes use of the Higashiyama mountains as a backdrop and is known as a famous spot for viewing autumn leaves.
Garyu Pond has a crane island on it, and in autumn the autumn leaves are reflected on the water’s surface, creating a spectacular view.
There is a turtle island in Engetsuchi Pond, and you can see ambitious stonework including the bank.
The moon-viewing platform faces the pond, and it is said that this is the place where Nene gazed at the moon and remembered Hideyoshi.
Teahouses “Kasatei” and “Shiguretei” and special nighttime viewing
Kodaiji Temple has two teahouses, “Kasatei” and “Shiguretei,” both of which are said to have been moved from Fushimi Castle.
One theory is that it was designed by Sen no Rikyu, Hideyoshi’s tea master, and it has been designated an Important Cultural Property .
The Kasa-tei has no ceiling, and the attic, with its radially arranged bamboo rafters, looks like an open Chinese umbrella, hence the name.
Its official name is “Ankankutsu” and it is characterized by its single-story thatched roof.
On the other hand, Shiguretei is a rare two-story teahouse, and is thought to have been a place in Fushimi Castle for viewing the moon and enjoying the cool breeze.
Additionally, Kodaiji Temple holds special nighttime viewings three times a year in spring, summer, and autumn.
The gardens and buildings will be lit up, and projection mapping will be performed in the Hojo front garden, Hashintei, creating a fantastical atmosphere that is different from daytime.
What is the best season to visit Kodaiji Temple?
Kodaiji Temple offers beautiful scenery all year round, but the two seasons we recommend visiting are spring and autumn .
In spring, from late March to early April, the cherry blossoms, including the weeping cherry blossoms at Hashintei Garden, are in full bloom.
During this time, special spring night viewings are also held, allowing you to enjoy the fantastic sight of the illuminated cherry blossoms.
Meanwhile, in autumn, from late October to late November, the temple grounds are decorated with vibrant autumn leaves.
The autumn leaves around Garyu Pond are particularly spectacular, with the red and yellow colors reflected on the water’s surface striking.
Special autumn night viewings are held during this season as well, and the beauty of the illuminated autumn leaves is truly exceptional.
In addition, the Kita no Mandokoro Tea Ceremony will be held on October 6th, so you can enjoy a cultural experience.
Access to Kodaiji Temple
Located in the Higashiyama area of Kyoto, Kodaiji Temple is relatively easily accessible from major spots in the city.
It is close to the tourist centers of Gion and Yasaka Shrine, and is also a popular stop on the way to Kiyomizu-dera Temple.
You can get there by various means of transportation, including buses, trains, and taxis, so choose the method that best suits your travel style.
Here we will introduce how to access the temple from Kyoto city and Kinkakuji Temple.
Access from Kyoto Station
The most convenient way to get from Kyoto Station to Kodaiji Temple is by bus.
Take city bus route 206 from Kyoto Station Bus Terminal’s A1 stop to Higashiyama-dori Kitaoji Bus Terminal, and get off at the Higashiyama Yasui bus stop .
From here it is about a 5-minute walk to Kodaiji Temple.
The journey takes about 18 to 20 minutes and costs 230 yen.
Alternatively, if you are using the Keihan Railway, take the Karasuma Subway Line from Kyoto Station to Karasuma-Oike Station, then transfer to the Tozai Subway Line and get off at Higashiyama Station.
From Higashiyama Station, it takes about 10 minutes on foot to reach Kodaiji Temple.
If you take a taxi, it will take about 10 minutes from Kyoto Station and the estimated fare will be around 1,200 to 1,800 yen.
Access from Kinkakuji Temple
The most common way to get from Kinkakuji to Kodaiji is by city bus.
From the Kinkakuji-mae bus stop, take city bus route 205 bound for Higashiyama-dori Kujo Shako-mae and get off at the Higashiyama Yasui or Gion bus stop.
The bus ride takes about 40 minutes, and then it’s a 5-minute walk to Kodaiji Temple.
Traffic congestion is common in Kyoto city, so it is a good idea to allow plenty of time when traveling.
If you take a taxi, it will take about 20 minutes from Kinkakuji to Kodaiji, and the estimated fare will be around 2,000 to 3,000 yen.
Public transportation takes a long time, so if you want to travel efficiently, we recommend using taxis.
Kodaiji Temple admission fees and hours
Basic information about Kodaiji Temple is summarized in the table below.
| item | Contents |
|---|---|
| Visiting hours | 9:00-17:30 (last admission 17:00) *Extended until 22:00 during the illumination period (last admission 21:30) |
| Admission fee | Adults: 600 yen; Junior and Senior High School Students: 250 yen [ Common Discount Ticket ] ・Kodaiji Temple・Sho Art Museum: 900 yen ・Kodaiji Temple・Entokuin Temple・Sho Art Museum: 1,000 yen *Elementary school students and younger may be admitted free of charge if accompanied by a guardian (check required) *Group discounts available (for groups of 30 or more) |
| holiday | Open all year round |
| Light up | Special night-time viewing (illumination) is available in spring, summer, and fall. Hours: Sunset to 22:00 (last admission 21:30) * Please check the official website for specific periods . |
| parking | Available (Kodaiji Parking Lot) Capacity: Approximately 100 cars Price: 600 yen for the first hour, 300 yen for every 30 minutes thereafter Discount: If you visit Kodaiji, Entokuin, or the Sho Museum, you can park for one hour free (must show parking ticket) *Parking for large buses is also possible (please inquire in advance) *There are also paid parking lots in the area |
Recommended spots around Kodaiji Temple
Kodaiji Temple is located in the heart of Kyoto’s Higashiyama area, and is surrounded by many attractive tourist spots.
The attraction is that you can enjoy the various charms of Kyoto all at once, from historic temples and shrines to atmospheric cityscapes and traditional shopping streets.
When you visit Kodaiji Temple, be sure to take the time to explore the surrounding attractions as well.
To help you enjoy your sightseeing efficiently, we will introduce three recommended spots that are within walking distance.
Entoku-in Temple
Entoku-in is a sub-temple of Kodai-ji Temple and is known as the place where Empress Dowager Nene spent her later years.
Since it is located right next to Kodaiji Temple, you can efficiently visit both temples by purchasing a joint admission ticket (900 yen) .
The highlight of Entoku-in Temple is its garden, which has been designated a national place of scenic beauty.
The two gardens in particular, “Karesansui” and “Yokoen”, are must-sees.
The stonework in the dry landscape garden is called “Tiger’s Cub Crossing” and is said to represent a mother tiger crossing a river with her cub on her back.
Another distinctive feature is the “Mirror Garden,” which uses Japan’s oldest mirror stone. In spring, weeping cherry blossoms decorate the garden, and in autumn, the autumn leaves create a beautiful landscape.
Like Kodaiji Temple, the garden is lit up at night, so you can enjoy a fantastical nighttime atmosphere.
Nene’s Road and Sanneizaka
The stone-paved path “Nene no Michi” that runs southeast from Kodaiji Temple is a charming road named after Empress Nene, the wife of the Empress Dowager Kita no Mandokoro.
On both sides of the street are a row of cafes, galleries, souvenir shops and other establishments that have been renovated from townhouses from the Edo period, allowing you to fully experience the atmosphere of the ancient capital.
As you continue along the road, you will come across Sanneizaka.
This stone-paved slope has been designated as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings by the national government , and is filled with typically Kyoto scenery.
Both sides of the slope are lined with teahouses, Japanese goods stores, kimono rental shops, and other establishments, making it a bustling area with tourists.
Once you reach the top of the hill, it leads to the World Heritage Site, Kiyomizu-dera Temple, making this a great route for traveling from Kodai-ji Temple to Kiyomizu-dera Temple.
It is a walking course where you can experience Kyoto’s history and culture just by walking.
Yasaka Shrine and Gion
About a 10-minute walk west from Kodaiji Temple is Yasaka Shrine, one of Kyoto’s most famous shrines.
It is the head shrine of the approximately 3,000 Yasaka Shrines (shrines dedicated to Susanoo) across the country, and is affectionately known as “Gion-san . “
It is said to bring good fortune in finding a partner, warding off evil, and business prosperity, and so many visitors come to worship here.
The main hall in particular has been designated an Important Cultural Property, and is the site of many seasonal festivals and events.
To the west of Yasaka Shrine lies Gion, Kyoto’s most famous entertainment district.
Gion has a history as a entertainment district, and you may see maiko and geisha coming and going.
In particular, Hanamikoji is a popular spot lined with charming townhouses and traditional restaurants, where you can experience the Kyoto atmosphere both day and night.
The course that goes from Kodaiji Temple to Yasaka Shrine and Gion is an attractive route that allows you to experience Kyoto’s history and culture all at once.
Frequently asked questions about Kodaiji Temple
summary
Kodaiji Temple was built by Empress Nene out of her deep love and admiration for her late husband, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and has a history of over 400 years.
There is no end to things to see, including the Kodaiji Maki-e lacquerware that conveys Momoyama culture to the present day, the mausoleum that is an Important Cultural Property, historical buildings such as the Kaisan-do Hall that were relocated from Fushimi Castle, and gardens that show off their beauty in every season.
The cherry blossoms in spring, autumn leaves, and fantastic nighttime illuminations all captivate visitors.
Kodaiji Temple is a hidden gem in Kyoto tourism, as it preserves tradition while incorporating modern innovations.
Be sure to stop by when you visit Kyoto.
