Just one step away from the hustle and bustle of Gion.
The oldest Zen temple in Kyoto, Kenninji, stands there.
Founded in 1202 by Myoan Eisai, this temple is the sacred place that brought Zen and tea to Japan.
With a history of over 800 years, the museum continues to protect national treasure-class artworks, such as Tawaraya Sotatsu’s “Wind Gods and Thunder Gods Screen” and Kaihoku Yusho’s sliding door paintings.
The twin dragons dancing in the lecture hall, the three gardens surrounding the abbot’s quarters, and the tranquil space of the sub-temple.
Kenninji Temple, where tradition and innovation come together, is the very essence of the modern Zen spirit.
In this article, we will explain the history, highlights, and access to Kenninji Temple.
What kind of place is Kenninji Temple?
Kenninji Temple is Kyoto’s oldest Zen temple, located in the Gion district of Kyoto.
Founded by Myoan Eisai in 1202, it boasts a history of over 800 years as the head temple of the Kenninji school of the Rinzai sect of Buddhism.
Within the temple grounds, there is an arrangement of temple buildings lined up in a straight line from north to south, typical of Zen temples, and important cultural properties such as the Imperial Envoy Gate, the Hojo, and the Lecture Hall remain.
Of particular note are the numerous valuable artworks, including the National Treasure “Wind Gods and Thunder Gods Screen” (a replica on display) and the sliding door paintings by Kaiho Yusho.
In addition, the gardens, each with its own unique atmosphere, such as Daiyuen, Choon-tei, and O△□-no-tei, express the aesthetic sense of Zen in space.
Kenninji Temple is not only an important place for Zen training, but also the origin of the Japanese tea ceremony , and Eisai is known as the “father of tea” who brought tea to Japan.
Nowadays, events such as Zen meditation sessions and sutra copying experiences are held here, and while preserving tradition, innovative efforts are also being made, such as fusing it with contemporary art.
History of Kenninji Temple
Kenninji Temple is a sacred place of Zen that has had deep roots in Kyoto for over 800 years.
The Zen and tea culture introduced by Eisai has had a profound impact on Japanese spirituality.
Its history of overcoming repeated disasters and constantly achieving rebirth speaks to the path it has walked alongside the development of Japanese culture.
In this chapter, we will explore the history of Kenninji Temple.
The Dawn of Zen in Kyoto
Kenninji Temple was founded in 1202 by Myoan Eisai as its founder and Minamoto no Yoriie, the second shogun of the Kamakura shogunate.
The temple’s name comes from the era name at the time.
It is noteworthy that when it was first built, it was not a purely Zen Buddhist temple, but a training center for the study of the three sects of Tendai, Shingon, and Zen .
This was thought to have been Eisai’s strategy to establish the emerging Zen sect in Kyoto.
Later, in 1258, Enni Ben’en, the founder of Tofuku-ji Temple, restored the dilapidated buildings.
The following year, Rankei Doryu entered the temple as the 11th abbot and transformed Kenninji into a specialized training center for pure Zen Buddhism.
During the Muromachi period, it was ranked third among the Five Mountains of Kyoto and prospered greatly under the protection of the shogunate.
Repeated destruction and reconstruction
The history of Kenninji Temple has been a continuous struggle against repeated disasters.
Since its construction, it has suffered numerous recorded fires.
In particular, during the Onin War (1467-77) , many buildings were burned down in the fighting, and many were also lost in a major fire during the Tensho era (1573-92).
Due to these disasters, none of the original buildings remain today.
It was Azuchi-Momoyama period military commander Ankokuji Ekei who worked hard to restore the ruined Kenninji Temple.
In 1599, he moved the abbot’s chambers from Ankoku-ji Temple in Aki Province and laid the foundation for the temple’s restoration.
After that, under the protection of the Tokugawa Shogunate, the reconstruction of the temple buildings and pagodas progressed.
Even in modern times, the temple continued to suffer from disasters such as arson in 1924 and the Muroto typhoon in 1934, but it has been rebuilt each time.
Inheritance and innovation to the present day
The religious policies following the Meiji Restoration also influenced Kenninji Temple.
Due to the Shinbutsu Bunri Rei (law to separate Shinto and Buddhism) and the anti-Buddhist movement, the number of sub-temples, which once numbered more than 50, was reduced to 14, and the temple grounds also shrank.
At the same time, it became independent as the Kenninji branch of the Rinzai sect of Buddhism and established itself as the head temple.
In 2002, to commemorate the 800th anniversary of the temple’s founding, a painting of two dragons was dedicated to the ceiling of the lecture hall, and restoration work continues to be carried out in modern times.
In recent years, the temple has been taking on innovative initiatives to keep up with the times while preserving tradition, such as hosting the special nighttime viewing event “ZEN NIGHT WALK” and the “Great Reiwa Renovation” of the subtemple, Sairaiin.
Kenninji Temple is not just a historical heritage, but a living cultural hub in constant dialogue with the present.
What to see at Kenninji Temple
Kenninji Temple has many sights packed with over 800 years of history and culture.
From national treasure-class artworks to intricate garden designs and distinctive architecture, the area is filled with spaces that embody Zen spirituality.
Here are three must-see spots to visit, and we hope you’ll embark on a journey that will touch upon its rich history and aesthetic sense.
What to see at Kenninji Temple
- Wind Gods and Thunder Gods Screen and sliding door painting by Kaihoku Yusho
- Three unique gardens
- The double dragon painting in the lecture hall and the layout of the Zen temple buildings
Wind Gods and Thunder Gods Screen and sliding door painting by Kaihoku Yusho
Image source: Kenninji Temple official website
The artistic treasures of Kenninji Temple include the National Treasure “Wind Gods and Thunder Gods Screen” by Tawaraya Sotatsu and the sliding door paintings by Kaihoku Yusho .
The Wind God and Thunder God Screen, painted in the 17th century, depicts the Wind God carrying a wind bag and the Thunder God beating a drum, boldly and dynamically, set against a vast gold leaf background.
The originals are on loan to the Kyoto National Museum, but an elaborate high-definition digital replica can be viewed within the temple.
Also, don’t miss the sliding door paintings by Kaihoku Yusho that decorate the abbot’s chamber and are designated as Important Cultural Properties.
Painted when Tomomatsu was 67 years old (around 1599), works such as Cloud Dragon and Seven Sages in a Bamboo Grove are masterpieces of ink painting that opened up a unique artistic realm with their powerful lines and bold omissions.
These works are still impressive today as art that visualizes the aesthetics of Zen – the dynamism in silence, the power of white space, and suggestive expression.
Three unique gardens
Kenninji Temple has three beautiful gardens, each with its own unique atmosphere.
The Daiyuen Garden, which spreads out on the south side of the Hojo, is a dry landscape garden designed by Kumakichi Kato, a landscape gardener active from the Meiji period through to the Showa period .
The white sand, moss and strategically placed boulders create a spacious and powerful landscape.
In the courtyard surrounded by the Hojo, large study, and small study is the Choon Garden, a garden designed to be viewed from all four sides, centered around the Sanzon Stone Triad, which symbolizes the Three Treasures of Buddha, Dharma, and Sangha.
Furthermore, in the main temple’s courtyard there is a modern abstract garden called “〇△□-no-Niwa,” which was inspired by the works of Sengai Gibon, a famous Zen painter.
The moss, white sand, and stones are used to create simple geometric shapes which are said to be the fundamental forms of the universe, symbolizing the four fundamental principles of Zen (earth, water, fire, wind).
These gardens function as philosophical spaces that encourage introspection in the viewer.
The double dragon painting in the lecture hall and the layout of the Zen temple buildings
Architectural features of Kenninji Temple include the layout of the temple buildings that is unique to Zen temples and the spectacular ceiling painting of the Lecture Hall, “Two Dragons.”
Within the temple grounds, the main buildings are lined up in a straight line from south to north – the Chokushimon Gate, Sanmon Gate, Lecture Hall, and Hojo – following the style of Chinese Zen temples that Eisai used as a model.
In particular, if you look up at the ceiling inside the lecture hall, you will see the magnificent “Two Dragons” painting, which was dedicated in 2002 by Japanese painter Junsaku Koizumi to commemorate the 800th anniversary of the founding of Kenninji Temple .
The ceiling painting, which covers an area of approximately 108 tatami mats, features two dragons dancing among the clouds, painted with dynamic brushstrokes, overwhelming all visitors.
The way in which this modern work blends beautifully into the space of the ancient temple symbolizes the open-mindedness of Kenninji Temple, which preserves tradition while also embracing the art of the new era.
What is the best season to visit Kenninji Temple?
Kenninji Temple is beautiful all year round, but the most recommended seasons to visit are spring and autumn.
Spring, from late March to April, is the time when the cherry blossoms in the temple grounds bloom in pale pink.
The cherry trees planted in the Hojo Garden harmonize with the garden’s stones and moss, creating a charming landscape.
Another great time to visit is from late October to late November, when the leaves in Choon Garden take on beautiful autumn colors.
The crimson-hued autumn leaves add a touch of elegance to the tranquil Zen space.
In the summer, a special night-time viewing event called “ZEN NIGHT WALK” is held, offering a fantastical experience, including projection mapping onto the double dragon painting in the Lecture Hall.
There are relatively few visitors in winter, so this season is recommended for those who wish to quietly immerse themselves in the world of Zen.
Access to Kenninji Temple
Kenninji Temple, a major tourist spot in Kyoto, is located at 584 Komatsu-cho, Yamato-oji-dori Shijo-sagaru, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto City.
It is within walking distance of the Gion entertainment district and can be accessed by various public transportation options, so please choose the mode of transportation that best suits your travel plans.
Access from Kyoto Station
There are several ways to get to Kenninji Temple from Kyoto Station.
The easiest way to get there is by taxi, which takes around 10 minutes.
If you take the city bus, take the 206 or 100 bus from Kyoto Station, get off at the Higashiyama Yasui bus stop, and then it’s about a 5-minute walk to the venue.
If you take the subway, take the Karasuma Line to Shijo Station and then walk east for about 15 minutes, or transfer to the Keihan Electric Railway to Gion-Shijo Station and then walk for about 5 to 7 minutes to reach Kenninji Temple.
Bus and train travel times may vary depending on traffic conditions, so we recommend that you plan your trip with plenty of time.
Access from Kinkakuji Temple
The easiest way to get from Kinkakuji Temple, located in the northwest of Kyoto, to Kenninji Temple is to take the city bus. Take city bus route 205 from the Kinkakuji-mae bus stop and get off at Shijo Kawaramachi.
From there, walk east for about 10 minutes, or walk towards Gion-Shijo Station on the Keihan Railway, and from the station it is about a 5-7 minute walk to Kenninji Temple.
If you take a taxi, you can go directly from Kinkaku-ji to Kennin-ji, and the journey will take about 20 to 30 minutes depending on traffic conditions.
If you plan to visit multiple tourist spots, the Kyoto Sightseeing One-Day Pass is also economical and recommended.
Kenninji Temple admission fees and hours
Below is a table summarizing basic information about Kenninji Temple.
| item | Contents |
|---|---|
| location | 584 Komatsucho, Yamato-oji-dori Shijo-sagaru, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto |
| Visiting hours (Honbo) | 10:00-17:00 (last admission 16:30) *May be shortened in winter (November to February). *There are days when the temple is closed due to memorial services, etc. |
| Admission fee (main temple) | ■ Adults: 800 yen ■ Junior and senior high school students: 500 yen ■ Elementary school students: 500 yen (*Please check as some sources may say 200 yen or free) ■ Preschoolers: Free ■ Disability certificate holders: Free ※The above fees are for the main temple (Hojo, lecture hall, garden, etc.). You may be able to explore some areas of the temple grounds for free, but you will usually visit via the main temple reception. ※Prices are subject to change. |
| parking | Available (near the north gate, paid parking) |
| Estimated travel time | Honbo viewing: Approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour *If you want to view the garden or visit a sub-temple, more time is required. |
| Nearest bus stop | Get off at Higashiyama Yasui and walk for about 5 minutes (City bus routes 100, 206, etc.) |
| Nearest station | About 5-7 minutes walk from Keihan Railway “Gion-Shijo Station” About 10 minutes walk from Hankyu Railway “Kyoto Kawaramachi Station” |
Recommended spots around Kenninji Temple
After visiting Kenninji, Kyoto’s oldest Zen temple, be sure to also visit the fascinating temples and shrines in the surrounding area.
The Higashiyama area is dotted with famous historic temples, allowing you to enjoy the tranquil atmosphere that is so characteristic of Kyoto.
We will introduce three temples that are within walking distance of each other.
Kodaiji Temple
Located about a 10-minute walk northeast from Kenninji Temple, Kodaiji Temple is a Rinzai sect Kenninji temple founded in 1606 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s wife, Nene, to commemorate his grandfather’s soul.
The dry landscape gardens “Mataya Garden” and “Kangetsudai Garden”, which have been designated as national scenic spots, are known as famous gardens that represent Momoyama culture.
In particular, the mausoleum of Toyotomi Hideyoshi and his wife, Kita no Mandokoro, is decorated with lacquerware, a style representative of the Momoyama period, and conveys the gorgeous aesthetic sense of the time to the present day.
In spring and autumn, the temple grounds are lit up, creating a fantastical landscape that is different from the daytime scenery.
The Kodaiji Sho Museum also exhibits traditional Kyoto crafts and tea ceremony utensils, making it a great opportunity to experience Japanese aesthetics.
Hokanji Temple (Yasaka Pagoda)
Hokanji Temple, located about a seven-minute walk east from Kenninji Temple, is more commonly known as “Yasaka Tower” than by its official name.
The 46-meter-tall five-story pagoda is a symbol of Kyoto’s Higashiyama area, and its beautiful silhouette has captivated many people.
This tower is said to have been built by the Nara period monk Gyoki.
Its refined, well-balanced beauty blends into the Higashiyama landscape while still making its presence known.
The interior of the tower can only be visited on the 28th of each month, providing a rare opportunity to view the statues of the Four Heavenly Kings and the Twelve Heavenly Generals.
It is particularly beautiful at dusk when it emerges against the backdrop of the Higashiyama mountain range, and is loved by many tourists and photography enthusiasts as a typical Kyoto landscape.
Shoren-in Temple
Located about a 15-minute walk north from Kenninji Temple, Shoren-in Temple is a historic temple that flourished as a Tendai sect temple.
It was once a prestigious temple whose chief priest was a child of the imperial family or aristocrats, and it is built at the foot of Mount Shoren-in, one of the 36 peaks of Higashiyama.
Shoren-in Temple’s “Soami Garden” is a stroll-style garden with a pond that is said to have been created by the Muromachi period landscape gardener Soami, and it displays beauty in all four seasons.
In addition, the Lotus Garden is filled with beautiful lotus flowers in summer.
The temple also houses many Buddhist statues, paintings and calligraphy designated as national treasures or important cultural properties.
During the special autumn nighttime viewing, “Shoren-in Temple Monzeki Night Special Viewing,” the gardens are lit up in a fantastical light, allowing you to enjoy a different atmosphere than you would during the day.
FAQs about Kenninji Temple
summary
Kenninji, the oldest Zen temple in Kyoto, is a cultural and religious heritage of Japan with over 800 years of history.
It attracts many people as the birthplace of Zen and tea ceremony, where the temple’s founder, Eisai, brought them, and as a treasure trove of valuable art pieces, including the National Treasure “Wind Gods and Thunder Gods Screen” and the sliding door paintings by Kaiho Yusho.
The spatial beauty created by the double dragon painting in the lecture hall and gardens such as Daiohyuen are also magnificent.
Kenninji Temple preserves tradition while also incorporating contemporary art, and as a sanctuary of silence amid the hustle and bustle of Gion, it continues to provide peace of mind to its visitors.
If you visit Kyoto, be sure to stop by.
